Sunday, June 9th, 2002
Paradise Found. Pinney
Curt and I were reluctant to leave lovely
and peaceful little Ballast Bay. It seems that so far, the
anchorages aren't necessarily what we had in mind when we
set out cruising, and so we find ourselves longing to linger
in those we enjoy as we're not sure when we'll find another.
However, with Hurricane Season baring down on us we also know
we need to move south to get out of the hurricane belt and
we don't have much time to dawdle, so we set off for the next
island of Nevis, just a short jaunt down the way.
We were both giddy to find this lovely little
stretch of beach! This looked much more like what we had thought
we'd find in the Caribbean. Palm trees lined the white sand
as far as the eye could see and a volcano sat watch over the
island from behind them. Colorful fishing boats lay beached
on shore and brightly painted little buildings poked out from
the brush here and there. A radio somewhere in the distance
was playing reggae, and the water was as clear as a swimming
pool. We anchored in 8.5 feet of water just north of the Four
Seasons resort where little Hoby Cats and sea kayaks were
The rest of the day we did nothing but snorkel
and dive for sandollars that lined the ocean floor below us.
Late in the afternoon Curt was motivated enough to play his
guitar in the cockpit while I sat on the bow, drawing for
the first time since I left San Diego four years ago. It was
a perfectly decadent day. To properly top it off, we had planned
to have a shower and dinghy in for a nice meal. At 8pm we
decided it's really too late to go anywhere, so we imbibed
in good ol' macaroni and cheese and the bottle of champagne
that Amie had brought us. It seemed like just the sort of
day we should celebrate our adventure. For desert, we lay
in the cockpit and watched the sky fill with stars.
Monday June 10, 2002
Exploring Smiling Nevis
We woke up late and listened to weather
forecaster, Perfect Paul over breakfast and coffee. After
straightening up, we head to Nevis' main port of Charlestown
to clear-in and see the town. About half way there in the
dinghy, it positively dumped rain. It felt like someone had
turned a hose on us. I tried to keep our boat papers and passports
dry with only mild success. After some searching, we found
customs in an unmarked old warehouse in the middle of town.
A smiling man sitting behind a caged window, wearing his official
customs attire laughed at us as we stood there still dripping
from the rain. He wasn't being mean, but rather helping us
laugh at a silly situation, so we all had a good chuckle together.
Without much of a plan other than to poke
around, we wandered the streets of Charlestown. It felt very
British: narrow winding streets, buildings squished together,
and lots of cobblestone everywhere. The people were the friendliest
we've encountered yet
everyone was smiling and helpful.
We bought some produce from a vendor on the side of the street
before heading back to Force Five.
That evening we allowed plenty of
time for the dinner out we had forfeited the night before
and set- off for Sunshine's
a beach bar down the way.
It was late afternoon as we beached the dinghy on the sand
in front of the restaurant, and two guys were setting up a
volleyball net. We found a seat at one of the little funky
painted picnic tables and ordered the infamous, "Killer
Bee" rum drink. It was mighty good, but also packed a
mighty punch. We watched a local reggae man carving walking
sticks and totem poles while smoking an enormous joint. It
was interesting to watch the rotating traffic of both locals
in their reggae attire of dreads and crocheted beanies, as
well as sunburned tourists from the Four Seasons in crisp
new sarongs. Everyone was smiling, everyone seemed happy.
We wrapped our evening up early as we had an eight hour sail
to Montserrat on the agenda for tomorrow, but I hope we can
come back and spend much more time in Nevis on our way back